Audi G28's History History Of Audi G28
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작성자 Angus 댓글 0건 조회 5회 작성일 24-11-20 18:27본문
How to Replace an Audi G28 Engine Speed Sensor
In this video, Charles the Humble Mechanic shows how to replace the G28 engine speed sensor. The sensor is located near the transmission's edge just above the flywheel gear. It sends a message to the ECU through the grey wire T55/49 and then to the tachometer in the instrument cluster.
1. Engine Speed Sensor
The grey wire is situated on the edge of transmission, just above the flywheel ring. The sensor transmits signals through the grey wire to pin T55/49. The ECU uses this information to regulate the amount of fuel and boost. It also sends an indication to the G5 Tachometer within the instrument cluster.
The sensor is used to link the G40 Camshaft position Sensor. The ecu needs to know when the crankshaft reached TDC, and the position of the camshaft, so that it can activate the spark and injectors.
If this sensor fails, the ECU will display a P00160 code which means the Crank Shaft and Intake Camshaft aren't in sync and could indicate chain stretch or a jumped link on the upper chain of timing. However, the error code won't appear on its own without additional information from other sensors (G4 and G40).
Testing is a bit challenging since there are two pins for the connector and they have different functions but the most effective way to test it is to measure the resistance between the sensor and the ECU. It should read approximately 1000 ohms if the sensor is operating at its maximum. If you are having problems with this component, look for evidence of oil or coolant in the connector bay.
2. Injectors
Yesterday, when i was accelerating to the fullest speed from highway paytoll, I experienced a big cut in power like the engine is out of gas or injectors are not firing at all. I took out the spark plugs this morning, three were soaked in gasoline, and the fourth was unclean. When i crank the engine with no sparks i put tissue on the top of each hole in the injector and the 3 that were drenched in gazoline pop out, but the 4th stays shut. I tested the ground connection of ECU pins 14,30 and 48/55. I found 0ohm. So i assume the problem is in another place.
I also tried to reset the PID without success. The car will start when the G28 is unplugged, and it works fine when the G28 connected. However the intermittent misfire issue persists at higher RPM. The temperature sensor for the coolant (G62) shows the wrong temp value -49c, even if I unplug it. Also i noticed that the gauge for oil pressure in the cockpit is showing 2 bar when the actual pressure is 0.0 when i rev the engine.
I'm not sure what to do. I think I've eliminated everything else. But i am afraid I may have missed something. If anyone has any suggestions, please chime in! TIA!
3. Fuel Pump
The fuel pump in the g28 can be activated by a signal sent by the RPM sensor. The GM-style sender is the same as the G4 and both are used in the 80, 100 200, UrS and RS2 cars which is why you can easily locate one at a wrecking yard or at a parts store. Test them out by putting your DMM in resistance mode and measure between pins 1 (with the bump on the connector's end up) and 2 (2nd from the left on the black connector's end). They must be infinite Ohms.
4. ECU
The ECU in our 20vt turbo (3B AAN ABY) engines must know both the speed and position of the crankshaft to make decisions regarding fuel injector timing, etc. To do this, it makes use of a Crank Position Sensor (G4) and an Engine Speed Sensor (G28). If you encounter a problem with either of these, the diagnostic scanner will display codes that could lead to an engine shutdown.
Some of the symptoms of a failed G28 sensor are an inaccurate rev counter in the gearbox and gears that shift faster than normal and/or misfiring when you are in gear. It is possible that your sensor is failing and requires to be replaced if you encounter any of these symptoms. They are cheap and easy-to-find, especially in the case of a Bosch model like ours. Alternatively, the GM version of this part is also a good option.
5. Tachometer
A damaged engine sensor could cause a number of problems in your vehicle. It's an essential component of the audi q7 replacement key (please click the next post)'s transmission as it sends information to the ECU about how fast or slow the vehicle's crankshaft is spinning. When this sensor fails, it could disrupt the performance cost of audi key replacement the transmission and the other car's components.
The G5 engine speed sensor is located at the outside of the transmission just above the flywheel ring gear and transmits a signal to the ECU at pin T55/49 through a grey wire. The ECU then uses and processes this signal to control fuel, timig, and boost as well as transmitting it to the G5 tachometer in the instrument cluster. You can determine if the sensor is in failure by examining the continuity from the sensor to the tachometer. You can also examine the continuity between pins T55/49 of the ECU and pin T6a/1 of the instrument cluster (trace [79]), and between pin T6a/1 and pin T26a/12. You should observe approximately 1000 ohms of resistance between these two points. This is a common part across the audi replacement keys 80 100 200, UrS and RS2 range from 1985 MC to the 1997 UrS AAN and 1995 RS2 ADU, so the best parts could be found in wrecking yards.

1. Engine Speed Sensor
The grey wire is situated on the edge of transmission, just above the flywheel ring. The sensor transmits signals through the grey wire to pin T55/49. The ECU uses this information to regulate the amount of fuel and boost. It also sends an indication to the G5 Tachometer within the instrument cluster.
The sensor is used to link the G40 Camshaft position Sensor. The ecu needs to know when the crankshaft reached TDC, and the position of the camshaft, so that it can activate the spark and injectors.
If this sensor fails, the ECU will display a P00160 code which means the Crank Shaft and Intake Camshaft aren't in sync and could indicate chain stretch or a jumped link on the upper chain of timing. However, the error code won't appear on its own without additional information from other sensors (G4 and G40).
Testing is a bit challenging since there are two pins for the connector and they have different functions but the most effective way to test it is to measure the resistance between the sensor and the ECU. It should read approximately 1000 ohms if the sensor is operating at its maximum. If you are having problems with this component, look for evidence of oil or coolant in the connector bay.
2. Injectors
Yesterday, when i was accelerating to the fullest speed from highway paytoll, I experienced a big cut in power like the engine is out of gas or injectors are not firing at all. I took out the spark plugs this morning, three were soaked in gasoline, and the fourth was unclean. When i crank the engine with no sparks i put tissue on the top of each hole in the injector and the 3 that were drenched in gazoline pop out, but the 4th stays shut. I tested the ground connection of ECU pins 14,30 and 48/55. I found 0ohm. So i assume the problem is in another place.
I also tried to reset the PID without success. The car will start when the G28 is unplugged, and it works fine when the G28 connected. However the intermittent misfire issue persists at higher RPM. The temperature sensor for the coolant (G62) shows the wrong temp value -49c, even if I unplug it. Also i noticed that the gauge for oil pressure in the cockpit is showing 2 bar when the actual pressure is 0.0 when i rev the engine.
I'm not sure what to do. I think I've eliminated everything else. But i am afraid I may have missed something. If anyone has any suggestions, please chime in! TIA!
3. Fuel Pump
The fuel pump in the g28 can be activated by a signal sent by the RPM sensor. The GM-style sender is the same as the G4 and both are used in the 80, 100 200, UrS and RS2 cars which is why you can easily locate one at a wrecking yard or at a parts store. Test them out by putting your DMM in resistance mode and measure between pins 1 (with the bump on the connector's end up) and 2 (2nd from the left on the black connector's end). They must be infinite Ohms.
4. ECU
The ECU in our 20vt turbo (3B AAN ABY) engines must know both the speed and position of the crankshaft to make decisions regarding fuel injector timing, etc. To do this, it makes use of a Crank Position Sensor (G4) and an Engine Speed Sensor (G28). If you encounter a problem with either of these, the diagnostic scanner will display codes that could lead to an engine shutdown.
Some of the symptoms of a failed G28 sensor are an inaccurate rev counter in the gearbox and gears that shift faster than normal and/or misfiring when you are in gear. It is possible that your sensor is failing and requires to be replaced if you encounter any of these symptoms. They are cheap and easy-to-find, especially in the case of a Bosch model like ours. Alternatively, the GM version of this part is also a good option.
5. Tachometer
A damaged engine sensor could cause a number of problems in your vehicle. It's an essential component of the audi q7 replacement key (please click the next post)'s transmission as it sends information to the ECU about how fast or slow the vehicle's crankshaft is spinning. When this sensor fails, it could disrupt the performance cost of audi key replacement the transmission and the other car's components.
The G5 engine speed sensor is located at the outside of the transmission just above the flywheel ring gear and transmits a signal to the ECU at pin T55/49 through a grey wire. The ECU then uses and processes this signal to control fuel, timig, and boost as well as transmitting it to the G5 tachometer in the instrument cluster. You can determine if the sensor is in failure by examining the continuity from the sensor to the tachometer. You can also examine the continuity between pins T55/49 of the ECU and pin T6a/1 of the instrument cluster (trace [79]), and between pin T6a/1 and pin T26a/12. You should observe approximately 1000 ohms of resistance between these two points. This is a common part across the audi replacement keys 80 100 200, UrS and RS2 range from 1985 MC to the 1997 UrS AAN and 1995 RS2 ADU, so the best parts could be found in wrecking yards.
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